Black Bean and Yam Burritos

Let's get something out of the way. I love meat. No, that's not quite right- I LOVE meat. I love a good steak, fried chicken, bacon, sausage, burgers, elk, beef, pronghorn, venison. I've eaten porcupine and bear but I'm not really a fan.

But I'm not so singular in culinary purpose as to eschew foodstuffs that are not sentient. Broccoli, for me, is the perfect vegetable- it lasts long in the fridge, is good raw in a salad and is best (I think) when steamed briefly, just to a bright emerald and eaten with only sea salt and fresh-cracked pepper. I cook zucchini on the grill and sometimes bread and fry it. Red peppers are not only beautiful and sultry but can take center stage or be part of the supporting cast with equal aplomb. Corn on the cob can be sweet enough to be candy.

I could go on. I haven't even gotten to grains and legumes yet (yes they're also plants but will be different for the sake of this discussion.)

My point- Hoping to (probably futilely) offset my lunch of 4 pieces of fried chicken today, I had an appetizer of steamed frozen veggies (adequately tasty) and a yam and black bean burrito (divine). I'll share the makings of the burrito.

I was first introduced to this particular gem about fourteen years and 2500 miles ago. My mountain biking friends and I would make an annual trip to Mount Snow, Vermont to see the northeast stage of the NORBA national mountain bike series. All the big shots would show up, those racers who took their jobs very seriously would stay in condos, those who savored every chance to live a little (and who didn't get paid as well) camped. We'd camp and take part in the evening's revelry, evidence of which I'm glad did not get on the internet. The following morning we'd ride to the Mt. Snow base lodge and amble around the expo area and team trucks. Once the effects from the previous night fully kicked in (around 11am) we desperately needed food, preferably meeting these requirements:

• cheap
• yummy
• nutritious
• ample
• cheap

As we're strugging through throngs of mountain bike fans (annoying, much like we were), racers (holy shit! that's John Tomac!), racers' girlfriends (whoa...so...hot...) we found Don.

If I were to say the words, "Crunchy Vermont Hippie", you'd probably conjure an image in your head, and that would probably (with varying amounts of facial hair) more or less resemble Don, proprietor of Don's Benevolent Burritos. A clean-shaven (really!), perpetually tie-dye wearing mellow and very cool guy, Don would drive to mountain bike races in the northeast in his VW bus (about a '76 or thereabouts). Once there, he would let his adorable son run around (River, I think his name is) as he set up his...setup. After a race or hard night one could walk up to Don, hand over a few dollars, and recieve a flour tortilla with black beans, sweet potato, and his homemade salsa, which had many more varieties of vegetables than I was used to.
For those few dollars, you got affordable, filling, and tasty sustenance. You also got an instantaneous connection with him when he handed you your burrito as he looked deep into your eyes for a split second that lasted an hour. "Friend, I made this burrito with my soul. There is a power in these humble vegetables and I would be most gratified if you used it for good," is what he said without moving his lips. When each of us obtained one, we would sit and consume without uttering any words. Nourishment indeed.
Only once did I eat two. I couldn't move for a half hour. Fitting punishment for gluttony.

I never did talk to Don about recipes. But in the following years I have tried (sometimes in vain) to replicate it. All attempts were tasty failures.

Tonight, however, I got close. In the spirit of Don's benevolence, I will share it:

First, make salsa, preferably the day before-

• Tomatoes (I used canned diced- the only quasi-prepared item here)
• Onion, chopped coarsely
• Garlic, plenty (and fresh)
• a Jalapeño, chopped (leave out seeds if you don't want it too hot)
• Cilantro, fresh and plentiful
• Red cabbage, a leaf or two and sliced thin
• Carrot, some, shredded
• Sea or Kosher salt

Play with the quantities. Put in a container. Mix. Leave in the fridge for a day before eating. This will keep for a week or so but will lose its zest after about 3-5 days.

Burrito:

• Yams or sweet potatoes, previously baked
• Black beans, preferably not canned
• Sharp cheddar (my current favorite is Cabot Hunter's Cheddar- Seriously Sharp!)
• Chili powder
• Goya Adobo (if you don't have any, you can use salt, garlic, pepper, and a bit (NOT TOO MUCH) of cumin)

Put everything except cheddar in a pan. Heat and spice to taste. Mix pretty well. Homogenization should not be a goal here. I like to put the cheese in the tortilla first but you can cheese it as you prefer. I just like to have a bit of segregation between my cheese and beany yams- makes every bite have a little different balance. Top with salsa, roll, and eat. Glow with satisfaction.

And there you have it. Even if you're an avowed carnivore, I think this will prove to be more than satisfying (did I really just write that?)

-John